I know that I am not alone in feeling that the Covid-19 pandemic has made us feel as if our lives were suspended for over a year. And I know that I am not alone in wanting to burst out of my confinement in a big way! The pandemic is not over, not by a long shot, but the vaccination has given us a new hope, and a new means to explore our world once again, albeit carefully.
And for many of us, that means escaping to the great outdoors. Which is just what we did.
I had always wanted to go to Yellowstone since hearing about Old Faithful wayyyy back in grade school, but had never had the opportunity to go. We decided to make it a priority this year. Our recent trip was epic enough for me to dust off this sadly underused blog platform, rev it up, and take it for a whirl again. I hope you enjoy!
Day One
It felt like we would never leave. We had been preparing for weeks, exploring maps, contacting friends, making reservations, searching Amazon for Camelbaks and bear spray, writing out instructions for plant-watering, etc. Finally, the day came and we were off! It was exhilarating to hit the open road after so many months. We headed from our home in Stillwater, Oklahoma to our first stop in Evergreen, Colorado. We would be spending the night with my dear friend from high school, Michelle. She and her family graciously hosted us and fed us like kings, and it was a joyous reconnection after way too many years! Hopefully the next time won’t be so long…
Day Two
We left from Evergreen after a scrumptious breakfast and headed for our reserved hotel in Pinedale, Wyoming. Pinedale is a small town located at the edge of the Bridger-Teton mountains, and within a short drive to the Grand Tetons National Park. On our way we began to see signs that we were really in the West. Real, live cowboys!
In Pinedale we found a brew pub for dinner with a local selection of beers from Wind River Brewing. We also discovered that apparently dogs can drive in Wyoming. Who knew?
We left early and drove through Hoback Junction and Jackson to get to the Grand Tetons. Upon the advice of our dear friend Sarah (who has recently relocated to Montana, and who is, by all accounts, an expert guide to the area), at the entrance to the Grand Teton National Park we purchased a year-long pass, good for entrance to any national park for one year. $80 is a minor investment if you are going to be visiting more than one park in a year. Just entering Grand Teton and Yellowstone with a weekly pass is $35 each park, $70 total. It makes sense to purchase the annual pass.
My one regret of the trip is to not have devoted more time to the Grand Tetons. The views are stunning, and I would have loved to do some shorter hikes. We did get our first black bear sighting here, two half-grown cubs playing in a meadow. I longed for a telephoto lens (and it wouldn’t be the last time I did) to record the event, but just watching them tumble and chase each other was such a thrill.
Unfortunately we had to stick to our schedule, which meant we had to drive through Yellowstone from south to north in order to get to our Airbnb in Livingston by evening. We could have driven around the park to avoid the inevitable traffic jams, but we wanted a first glimpse of what the park had to offer. Sarah, who lives in Livingston and frequently visits Yellowstone (known locally as simply “The Park”), recommended a spot overlooking Lake Yellowstone for our picnic lunch. Distances may not be great, but the speed limit is 45 or below throughout the park, and there are many, many people on those roads who are slowing down periodically to view wildlife or pull into one of the many roadside points of interest, not to mention the occasional “buffalo jam” involving herds that aren’t in a hurry to get anywhere. Traveling through the park requires more than an average dose of patience and focused driving attention.
Yellowstone is mostly in Wyoming, but has parts in three states—Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. So you have an idea of the scope (distances are in miles), here’s a simplified map of the park that Sarah sent us (source unknown):
We took the eastern route towards the Fishing Bridge, and stopped at a place called Gull Point Drive overlooking Yellowstone Lake for our picnic lunch. After lunch we continued driving towards the Canyon Village area, stopping off to see the Mud Volcanoes.
I began to wonder what it must have been like for the first person to happen upon Yellowstone’s belching, fuming, sulfurous boiling mud pits, hot springs, and geysers. The smell alone would repel anyone from afar. The noises are mildly terrifying.
After the Mud Volcanoes, we headed up to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone where there are lookout points for the Upper and Lower Falls. By this time of the afternoon, the parking lots were completely packed, and the lookout platforms were jammed with tourists trying to get the most optimal view, taking selfies and family pictures en masse. After 16 months of pandemic, I began to feel like society has forgotten how to act in public. The crowds felt uncomfortable, so we quickly took our snapshots of the breathtaking falls and made a getaway. I do wish I’d had more time here, because the canyon is truly impressive.
On our way to Norris we came across this guy. I never knew that elk were so imposing.
As we headed north to the the Mammoth Hot Springs and North Entrance, we saw a few of his lady friends hanging around the buildings there.
After traversing two major national parks in one day, we were spent. We decided to skip Mammoth Hot Springs and headed to Gardiner, Montana, just outside the North Entrance. From Gardiner to Livingston was an easy but gorgeous 52 mile drive, and we arrived at our Airbnb in time to freshen up a bit, call Sarah, and go to a local bar for a late dinner.
Day Four
Sarah had wisely advised us that after such a long travel day, this day would be a good one to go soak in the hot springs at Chico, a local resort. We packed a lunch for later in our cooler, drove for barely a half-hour, and under a brilliant blue sky we soaked our sore shoulders and travel-weariness away in a pool of water fed purely from hot springs. Looking at it you would say it’s just a swimming pool, but there’s no chlorine or other additives, and the water is blazing hot. You can’t help but relax!
After Chico, we set off for a relaxing drive down Mill Creek Road. We ate a picnic lunch next to Mill Creek at a turnout, enjoying a little shade and breeze from the creek in the midday heat. The drive took us east through a lush valley, deep woods, and then into a rocky canyon. Around each bend was a new and surprising vista.
We returned to Livingston in time to take a walk around the historic neighborhood, then went to Gil’s Goods, a nice little bistro and bar with outdoor seating. The weather remained perfect!
Stay tuned for Days Five through Eight!
