Friday, May 31, 2013

Packing to Gallivant



I used to know how to spell.  By “used to,” I mean in third and fourth grade, when I got perfect scores on all my spelling tests.  Lately I’ve been depending less on my faulty memory and more on Google.  I want to “galavant” across Europe, and Google asks me, “do you mean gallivant?”  Why, yes, Google, I do want to galavant/gallivant!  Of course, learning foreign languages has not helped my spelling at all.  I have lived in apartments and appartements, both of which had an address or adresse.

But I digress. This entry was supposed to be about packing. 

Part 1.  The preliminaries


A few days ago I mentioned to my doctor the challenges of packing for my trip, and he responded, “I’m not sure I would know how to pack for seven weeks.”  To which I replied, “well, you really only pack for two weeks, and do laundry.”  But, the question is, how the hell do you pack for two weeks of questionable weather and fit it all into two carry-on bags?  Having been through several hellish bag-retrieval experiences while traveling abroad, I have sworn off checking a bag if I can help it.  It cuts down on headaches of one sort, while creating a packing challenge.  Of course, no one will care if I wear the same thing several days in a row, as long as I don’t smell bad (and the standards for that vary from country to country as well), so I try to go with basic pieces that mix and match and don’t wrinkle.  Also, I go for dark colors, so if a drop of wine or sauce gets spilled, I’m not left with trying to get stains out.  Thin layers work well to keep you warm, or peel off when the sun finally emerges, and they also air-dry more quickly (my in-laws don’t have a dryer).  Leggings do double-duty under dresses, for exercise, or as pajama bottoms.

I begin with a list, of course.  All the things I’d like to take if I had room.  Then I pare it down, eliminating the things I’m not sure flatter me, or are the least bit uncomfortable (no matter how cute I think they look).  I do all my laundry and put it away, then I pile the things on my pared-down list on the guest bed, then wait a few days (today’s task). 


Packing Phase One


After sleeping on it a couple of times, I weed out the pile again of things I don’t think I’ll wear more than once or twice (the exception to this is when there’s a very special occasion, such as a wedding or other celebration), or things I have even a tiny doubt about.  It seems that no matter how lightly I pack, I always come home with things I didn’t wear even once. Really.  

In the meantime, I gather all the things I would freak out if I didn’t have for seven weeks, or would be nearly impossible to replace:  prescription medications, non-prescription favorites, passport, credit cards, phone, charger, adapters, camera.  Electronics are available in Europe, of course, but much pricier than in the U.S., so I’m taking my Kindle and laptop, and all the chargers and cords for them.  I stick to the quart Ziploc 3-1-1 rule for shampoo, etc., since although I love my chosen brands, I won’t die if I don’t have my conditioner or hairspray for a few weeks.  My meds, electronics, and documents go into my backpack first thing.







Prescription meds are a must.  For longer trips, I found out you can usually get a “vacation prescription” from your pharmacy.  Even though they’re bulky, I carry them in the prescription bottle, so I have that ready to present to customs, or if I have to refill abroad.  Favorite vitamin brands are good to take, too.  I take OTC allergy meds and Aleve, so I take a generous supply.  I’m sure these are available in Europe, but the challenge of finding the same brand name or a similar brand is sometimes overwhelming.  I have taken something in France called Doliprane, which is like Tylenol, but made to fizz with water like Alka-Seltzer.  I do know one brand name that is the same in France, and it’s a lifesaver:  Imodium.

Scarves and inexpensive jewelry help provide variety in an otherwise monochromatic wardrobe.  I’m not extremely girly, but it’s the little things that make a difference.  Of course, Europe is an awesome place to buy either, so if I forget some jewelry or scarves, it’s OK.  On the other hand, I am not built like French women, so if I have to go clothes shopping there, it becomes an issue.  Black pants, black skirt, several nice Ts, a couple of thin cardigans, and some colorful scarves will be sufficient.  But the real challenge is at the bottom of my list:  shoes.  I want to be able to exercise while I’m there, but running shoes are HUGE, and take up so much room.  I try to fill them with socks, etc., but I don’t really want my clean things to smell like the inside of my running shoes, so this is always a problem.  I also have terrible feet, which means I can’t wear the same pair of shoes for several days in a row, especially if I’m walking a lot.  Birkenstock sandals serve double-duty as slippers (necessary in a lot of European households; everyone takes off their outside shoes at the door, and stone or tile floors are often too cold to go barefoot, even in summer) and sandals, as long as I remember to wipe them off when they go back to being slippers.  I need some close-toed walking shoes for cities with cobblestones, and maybe another pair to go out in.   Four pairs of shoes.  One will be on my feet, three in my bags.  Ugh.

Part 2.  The method


The conundrum: to roll up or lay clothes flat?

My mother lived mostly out of a suitcase from 1953-1962 when she worked as a civilian for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.  She lived in Japan, Mississippi, Panama, and finally Washington, D.C., and traveled extensively between assignments.  She had some experience packing, one might say.  When I was a child, she packed my suitcases for camps and vacations, and soon I learned to copy her method.  When I was planning my year of study abroad in college, I tried to experiment with other methods, but both my mother and I were horrified after my first attempt--so little actually fit in my suitcase, whose outside proportions were enormous.  I hurriedly dumped the notion of rolling up my clothes, and went back to laying them flat.

Rolling clothes works well if you have that whole system where you put the things in plastic bags, and then suck the air out of them.  Trouble is, you have to also bring that contraption with you that sucks the air out, and the clothes are wrinkled beyond recognition.  Laying items flat allows you to spread things out to fit the dimensions of the suitcase, and then smash them down with the strap.  You still have little nooks and crannies to put shoes (and underwear and socks and scarves and belts, if you want; however, I even lay my underwear and socks out flat); there's even room for little zipper bags and coin purses and an extra fold-up tote and plastic bags.  People have been amazed at how much I can fit into a carry-on rolling suitcase, and I know for a fact it’s because I lay them flat.  It’s physics, people; rolling things up creates irretrievable spaces and bulk no matter how tightly you think you can roll it.  Believe it.

Recently I read a packing tip that made sense, and I’m willing to try it.  When you’re having trouble getting that suitcase zipped, try throwing it on the floor; the clothes will settle, leaving room to close the thing.  I don’t advise trying this in a European hotel, however; people on the floor below you might think the roof is caving in.

Part 3.  Packing for a 10-year-old


Dear god, help us. I know it’s coming:  the argument about bringing the computer.  My son is a Minecraft junkie, and cannot imagine a seven-week period of life without access to his drug of choice. I am convinced that he should learn how to be bored and invent stuff to do outside during the summer.  His grandparents have a couple of acres of garden and fruit trees and running space, and a bicycle.  I am not taking his gargantuan laptop.  I refuse.

Otherwise, packing for a ten-year-old is a piece of cake.  He is responsible for gathering 10 t-shirts, 5 shorts, 15 underwear, 10 pairs of socks, a pair of jeans, a pair of long pants, a dress shirt, a couple of sweatshirts or pullovers which can be layered with each other, pajamas, two pairs of shoes, a comb, children’s Tylenol, shampoo, conditioner, nail clippers, Band-aids, triple-antibiotic ointment, and hydrocortisone cream (poor kid has my skin, prone to weird rashes).  We usually buy him a cheap or disposable camera, or let him take photos with ours.  Kindle, stuffed animal.  Done.  When he was little, we packed a TON of activities for the plane, but now he just watches the movies, listens to music, plays or reads on his Kindle, or sleeps.  I can even “borrow” some of his suitcase real estate for extra things like presents or chocolate when we return.  Or my shoes….

Sunday, May 26, 2013

Enthusiasm builds

I’ve always been slow to emote.  It is a blessing and a curse.  Friends give me the best news of their lives and I smile quietly until the synapses fire.  After the evening is over I go home and the reality sinks in.  When I’m insulted face-to-face, it doesn’t get a rise; I can think of a million-and-one witty responses a few hours later.  After a couple of glasses of wine, the emotions come more quickly (like when my friend told me she was pregnant on my birthday last year and I squealed like a stuck pig).  But most of the time I let the surprising information sink in incrementally, then gauge my reaction in an equally measured manner.  It’s been useful for years in dealing with emotionally charged situations at work.  I’ve got what the French call sang froid, (literally "cold blood")--a cool head, we would say in English.  I’m the ultimate emotional procrastinator.  It’s not anything I do on purpose, it’s just the way I’m built, I guess.  So that’s why it’s taken me since I bought my tickets to France in March until now to really get excited.  In March, it was just a distant vision, an apparition of a summer vacation, mixed with a small dose of self-doubt and sadness about leaving some close relationships behind by leaving my job.  In April, it was a drain on my bank account when I paid the credit card bill.  In early May, it was a distraction, a list of things to do, ranked further down from graduations and celebrations and spring clearance events.  Tomorrow is Memorial Day, a time when for many years I’ve been preparing for my annual professional conference and trying to fit some family time in, but today….today I actually started to pack for my seven-week adventure.

Maybe it has something to do with the fact that my friend Isabel found us a fabulous little B & B in the heart of Barcelona; or maybe it’s that the weather is gloomy and morose, luring me to exotic climes; or perhaps it’s the restlessness of being in the middle of that post-graduation No man’s land before summer session starts….after so many years working in education, I can’t help but think in semesters of the academic calendar.  I have no idea what the impetus, but I am getting excited about my trip.  Eleven days and counting.  If the passports aren’t up-to-date we’re screwed.  No time to diet and exercise more to lose that winter poundage.  Eleven days is just enough time to make lists, gather stuff, contact friends, program phone numbers into my phone, frantically search for hostess gifts, do the laundry, grab a last-minute wine with friends.  Some sort of alarm went off in my brain, and some power of the universe told me it’s time to get thrilled about my upcoming trip.  I’m only too happy to oblige.
The Quadrat d'Or Bed and Breakfast in Barcelona


Friday, May 24, 2013

Every Adventure Begins at Home


I must be nuts.  Nothing else can explain it.  I am headed to Europe for seven weeks, and I’ve barely planned anything.  I thought that by not having a job outside the home I would have loads of time to plan, prepare, pack, see people, have leisurely conversations, feel relaxed.  On the contrary, I’m busier now than when I was working forty hours a week.  I’m trying to coordinate the schedules of six sets of friends to visit and/or meet up with while I’m in France.  My original plan was to buy a Eurail pass for the duration, but WOW! have prices gone up since I was an undergrad riding the rails over that continent; it’s now a whopping $908 for 10 days of travel in two months, and the prices go up from there.  I’ve been driving now for 30 years (yes, go ahead, do the math), and yet the idea of getting behind the wheel of a car (possibly that of my in-laws, no less) in a foreign country intimidates me more than a little.  But it seems I don’t have much choice if I want to save money, time, and have the freedom and convenience only a car provides.  Yes, rail travel is still fabulous in Europe, but the places I want to go are off the map somewhat, and I would be dependent on others to schlep me to and from the station, and I would be subject to train schedules, which in France means always going through Paris.  Gah.

My itinerary, you ask?  I begin by arriving at my in-laws’ house via plane, TGV, and a 45-minute ride from the train station in Le Mans, France.  A few days later I’m going to rent a car or take their car, kiss my son Gaël goodbye (he’ll have his own adventure with his grandparents for a while), and drive to a very tiny town in the Pyrenees, more than 900 kilometers away.  My friend Lynn, whom I haven’t seen since a friend’s wedding in the mid-90s, lives there with her French husband and an adorable little daughter.  I’ve been instructed to bring rillettes, a specialty of the Pays de la Loire (my in-laws’ region), and I’m already worried about how to transport this lovely fatty pork “paste” without giving everyone botulism.

After a few days with Lynn and her family I will venture 234 kilometers further to Barcelona, Spain.  Now, I’ve heard good things about Barcelona, but that’s about it.  Good things.  I think there’s something called the Sagrada Familia, but beyond that I know nothing.  And I’m driving there.  I don’t speak Catalan, and my Spanish is, well, practically non-existent.  I’m hoping for someone along the way who speaks English or Portuguese, because I will inevitably get lost.  My god, I’m so ill-prepared.  My primary purpose for being there, however, is to meet up with my friend Isabel who lives in Madrid.  We also haven’t seen each other since 1995.  Will we have anything to talk about?  Or, what I fear more, will we ever be able to stop talking?  Too many years to catch up on!  A weekend will be barely enough, and I want to make sure I have photos of my husband and son, since she hasn’t met either.  Oh, and my house, and yard.  Yowza.

After a weekend whirlwind, I will wind my way back to Poitiers, where I will visit Jean-Philippe and Regina, another Franco-American couple.  Fortunately, I’ve seen them more recently, a few times in France and a few times when they’ve made their yearly journey to Regina’s native Michigan.  I hope to get to hear some Irish music there, as Jean-Phi plays and Regina sings in an Irish group in Poitiers.  I hope to also pick up some of the fabulous chèvre and brebis cheeses from the Poitou.  Oh, and of course, the famous Pineau de Charentes, one of my favorite aperitifs.

Finally, back to Marolles-les-Braults, chez Prudhomme in-laws.  But just for a night or two, and to pick up my little man for another drive to another country where I don’t speak the language.  My friend from grad school, Raigan, lives with her family in Frankfurt.  She has two sons, one of which is about the same age as my son, so I imagine parks and soccer balls and apfelwein and catching up on old times.  I had dinner with Raigan and our friend Kim a couple of summers ago in Chicago, but it will be nice to see her place and her husband and children in their “native habitat.”

We’ll actually be able to spend a few days with Gaël’s grandparents after that, but then they’ll take off with some friends on vacation in their camper, and Gaël and I will set off to visit my dear friend Amy in Leuven, Belgium.  Amy and I email each other several times a week, and Skype every couple of weeks.  Her family visited us last summer.  She’s Gaël’s godmother and “aunt”, so he’ll enjoy being there with her and her husband and three sons, though they’re a bit older than he.  Then….back through Paris to meet up with friends Liz and Nate who are spending a couple of months there for Liz’s research.  Bastille Day in Paris!!  Oh, my, I AM nuts.  I dislike crowds and cities and driving in Paris.  But I think we should experience Bastille Day in Paris at least once in lifetime.

Returning again to Marolles-les-Braults, the in-laws will welcome Amy and her family down from Belgium, and we’ll do some day trips with the kids to some Loire Valley chateaux.  We’ll take a few deep breaths, and then we’re back on the plane home, bringing home my niece Aude for a month’s visit.  She’s 17, never been to the States, and I’m not sure about her English, but it will be the beginning of another adventure.

So….how am I preparing for all of this?  I’m cleaning my house.  From top to bottom.  Every grand adventure begins at home, you see.  Yes, I was one of those people who couldn’t study for finals unless my house was clean and my laundry done.  I’ve got a billion to-do lists, and I will get only a third of the things on them done, if I’m lucky.  I also have to clean my house before I go on any trip; I can’t stand coming home to a dirty house after an exhausting journey.  There’s just one catch:  after I clean the house this time, it won’t be left empty.  Someone will still be living here for the seven weeks we’re gone.  Granted, he’s a pretty clean guy, but he just doesn’t see the things I see.  Hopefully the house will be in good shape by the time we get back.  Keep your fingers crossed.

Actually, my surface worry of a clean house is masking my true disappointment that my husband won’t be with us for seven weeks, sharing our adventures.  He’s got to be here to work and take classes for his PhD.  I can’t say I won’t miss his quirky commentary.  I’ll miss his tendency to avoid the autoroutes and take the smaller roads so he can detour through tiny towns to stop at every bakery in France (flan, always flan; I swear that man has sampled flan from every department in the country. I personally go for the chausson aux pommes, the ultimate apple turnover).  I’ll miss our three-way chats with his mother.  I’ll miss the way he teases his grandmother.  I’ll miss our midnight star-gazing.

Oh, well.  Such is life, I guess.   Sure, we’ll Skype on the weekend, and email here and there.  Maybe he’ll even read my blog.

Oh, yeah, which brings me back to:  this is a new blog, hopefully chronicling my travel adventures in my “new” life.  Here’s hoping that my ill-planned European vacation is only the first chapter.  Follow me at your own risk…